(BH90-93 points) A gentle but not invisible application of wood sets off the notably spicier aromas of lilac, tea, red currant and plum scents. The medium-bodied and intensely mineral-inflected flavors are ever-so-slightly less fine but markedly more concentrated as the dusty and relatively powerful finish coats the palate with sap. This should amply reward 10 to 12 years of cellaring.

The 2014 Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets still has that compelling, stony, minerally, limestone scented bouquet that is beautifully defined and transparent. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, crisp acidity, nicely structured and a little more saline than its fellow premier crus. I appreciate the weight here, the tension throughout, the length on the finish. Though it just errs on the austere side, it is a sophisticated Volnay that should age well over the next 20 years. - Neal Martin