Sleek, offering flavors of vanilla, cardamom, nutmeg and honey, with buried peach and lemon fruit. Concentrated and tightly knit, finishing elegantly, revealing excellent, pastry-tinged length. The texture indicates that this should be ready soon. Best from 2018 through 2028. From France. — B.S.

Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting, Bouchard's 2014 Le Montrachet Grand Cru was clearly showing a lot of creamy and vanilla-laced new oak on the nose that rather shaded the terroir (which when it is this vineyard, you want to sense). The palate is better with a touch of fresh ginger on the entry lending some spice, and again, there is quite a lot of oak that needs to be better enmeshed with the fruit. This finish is too sweet with a touch of brown sugar. Maybe it will improve with bottle age? It should do so given its status. But it is difficult to see the upswing at the moment. - Neal Martin