This is already really delicious. The black-fruit aromas are really ripe, but there’s no hint of jammy stuff. Tastes simultaneously juicy and creamy, and the tannins are so graceful: The wine glides across the palate. If it were more subtle, the score would go even higher.

Shows lovely fruit, with waves of blueberry, plum and boysenberry compote rolling over each other. The polished structure is well-embedded, while the finish lets a graphite note peek out. Emphasizes purity rather than extraction. Best from 2018 through 2028. 4,667 cases made. –JM

The 2014 Clos l'Oratoire has certainly lost its bashful personality since en primeur, now in bottle, much more exuberant with pure cranberry, boysenberry and orange rind aromas, nicely delineated with impressive intensity. The palate is smooth, almost velvety on the entry, a plush and quite luscious Saint Emilion with impressive volume and presence. It might lack a little delineation, but there is satisfying length as those mulberry and raspberry notes persist and linger long after the wine has departed. This surpasses my expectations. - Neal Martin