Enjoyable, black fruit, tannic grip, the fresh acidities mean this is not as supple as many in this line up but there is plenty of concentration to get stuck into here. Pencil lead and dark chocolate add appellation signature.

The wine has powerful tannins which are balanced with equally rich fruit. It is firm, in the Saint-Estèphe style, while never losing sight of a rich fruity future. The wine, from an estate at the heart of the Pez plateau, will develop well. Drink from 2024. ROGER VOSS

One of the oldest properties in the Médoc, dating back to 1452, this Roederer-owned St-Estèphe estate is part of the same stable as Pichon Comtesse. Right now it's displaying a fairly hefty showing of oak, balanced out by concentrated black fruits to give both style and substance, and majoring on cloves and black pepper spice. It will need a little longer to come around than some.

This property is on the inland plateau of St-Estèphe. The wine starts off austere and spicy, with notes of fennel seeds and cardamom, then opens to dark, savory fruit, graphite-rich tannins and floral notes. It’s a beefy young Bordeaux, suited to a few years in the cellar.