(WA95-97 points) The 2014 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint Jacques will be aged in 80% new oak, although my sample came from a new barrel. It has a very perfumed, voluminous bouquet with billowing red berry fruit, rose petals and subtle flinty aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with a fine saline entry. You can feel the mouth tingling here with wonderful tension and poise on the sustained finish. This is a more linear "CSJ" than recent vintages, but no less entrancing. It challenges the Clos de Bèze for the silver medal behind the Chambertin. - Neal Martin

A discreet but not invisible touch of wood sets off a more deeply pitched and intensely floral nose that in particular displays notes of violet and lavender along with plum, black cherry, spice and gentle earth scents. There is again excellent volume to the sleek but powerful and concentrated middle weight plus flavors that exude a fine bead of minerality on the moderately austere finish that delivers flat out superb persistence. While this gorgeously classy effort will also require extended keeping to reach its apogee, it contrasts with the grands crus in that it should be approachable after only 6 to 8 years of bottle age.

Dense and youthful red purple. The oak is sitting a little firmly on this at the moment, with a slight heat to the fruit. Muscular on the palate, all in a red fruit register, the oak is better integrated than on the first nose, but the wine is a little four square nonetheless. But give it time. Though tannins are present, this begins to build very well and the finish is significantly finer than the first attack

The 2014 Clos St. Jacques from Domaine Rousseau is also a great young wine in the making, but this wine was raised in seventy percent new oak and it really seemed subdued after the blazing display of terroir found in the Clos des Ruchottes! The bouquet is deep and complex, offering up scents of red and black cherries, grilled meats, cocoa, coffee, a complex base of minerality and plenty of spicy new wood. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and nascently complex, with a fine core, lovely structure and balance, ripe tannins and a long, tangy and still quite primary finish. This will be terrific wine in the fullness of time, but I could just not help thinking what it might have looked like if treated like the Clos des Ruchottes and raised in only twenty percent new wood.

Sleek and focused, delivering currant, wild cherry, rose hip and mineral flavors, this red offers a core of ripe fruit notes that keep it grounded, and well-integrated tannins provide balance. Fine length. Best from 2021 through 2036.