This beauty is creamy and finely knit, showing off lemon cake, apple, floral and mineral flavors. Impeccably balanced and long, this unfolds slowly to reveal an aftertaste that echoes lemon, mineral and spice. Best from 2019 through 2028. — B.S.

(BH90-93 points) Relatively firm reduction knocks down the nose and about all that can be said is that the underlying fruit seems ripe. Otherwise the rich, generously proportioned, fleshy and full-bodied flavors are solidly concentrated and a bit more mineral-driven than usual while ending in an intense, attractively textured and impressively lingering finish. This stylish effort displays lovely balance and a fine sense of underlying tension and overall, this is notably more complex than it usually is at this early stage.

The 2014 Clavoillon from Domaine Leflaive is very floral this year and delivers superb complexity and breed on both the nose and palate. The outstanding nose wafts from the glass in a pure blend of apple, white peach, chalky soil tones, a gardenful of white flowers, a touch of fresh almond and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and simply gorgeous on the attack, with a fine core, bright acids and excellent backend precision on the very long and racy finish. The elegance of 2014 has given the Clavoillon here wings on which to soar!