Super-smoky nose! Also fine stone fruit aromas, as much mirabelle as peach. Very concentrated and flinty, this is still on the long road to nirvana. Very pure, crystalline and dry with a drive that must be experienced to be believed. For the very warm vintage this has an astonishingly clean finish. From biodynamically grown grapes with Biodyvin certification. Drinkable now, but best from 2025. Tasted at the Zind-Humbrecht Grand Cru Rangen vertical in November 2023. - Stuart Pigott

The 2015 Riesling Clos Saint-Urbain Rangen de Thann opens with a clear, pure, stony, pretty pithy and concentrated yet not really fruity or, at least, juicy aroma. The 2015 is stony, saline and dense as well as aromatic yet specific in its lemon-skin notes. "From the middle of June, temperatures rose significantly, peaking in early July at 38 to 39 degrees Celsius for many days, too many days," Olivier Humbrecht noted in his vintage report. "The absence of rain and extreme heat caused hydric stress problems that resulted in many burned leaves and grapes. In fact, there was more damage from the sun rays than the drought," he continued. As a consequence, the berries remained "very small and didn’t reach normal size." From the end of July to the end of August, some rainfall brought some life back in the vineyards, namely in the south of Alsace where the Rangen is located. "These isolated rainstorms explain the heterogeneity across Alsace." On the palate, the 2015 Rangen Riesling is remarkably vital and fresh, even nervous, with concentrated, always citrusy fruit and a tight and pithy rather than finessed and juicy character. The finish is pure, tight, saline and, in a positive way, astringent and younger than the slightly similar 2019. The 2015 seems to still be on its way and shows up as a still-pubescent vintage. Bottled in February 2027 with 13.2% alcohol. Tasted in the Pfalz as part of the vertical in November 2023 and again in March 2024. - Stephan Reinhardt