Though packed with black currant, blueberry and cherry fruit, this red is wrapped up in a firm structure today, giving an austere feel. All the components are in the right proportion and there’s no denying the saturated aftertaste that echoes the core of cherry. Best from 2023 through 2045. From France. — B.S.

This structured wine comes from one of the lesser-known Grand Crus of Vosne-Romanée. But it does have the structure and density of the wines from this run of grand crus, with bold tannins over the red-cherry fruits. It is likely to be a structured wine for many years. Drink from 2027.

(BH92-94 points) This is also all-but mute and even vigorous swirling only reveals notes of wood and spice. Despite the mouth feel of the Chambertin being somewhat finer than usual, here it is notably finer still with excellent concentration to the succulent, lacy and almost delicate mid-palate that contrasts considerably with the sappy, powerful and equally long finale. This is a powerful RSV that should also reward extended keeping.

The 2015 Romanee St Vivant les Quatre Journaux Grand Cru is a lovely wine, and one which is likely to surprise in blind tastings in a few years' time. A pretty nose of rose petal, ripe red cherry, dark chocolate, anise and incipient smoked duck introduces a full-bodied, supple wine with a lavish, expansive attack, good depth, and an ample chassis of fine-grained tannins. The finish is deceptively long. This wine seems likely to be one of the more approachable 2015 grand crus and should give pleasure throughout a broad window. - William Kelley