While 2015 Les Leçons des Maîtres (80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Semillon) is brought up in new barrels, you'd never know it and it has classic Bordeaux Blanc notes of green citrus, crushed rock, mineral water and hints of lychee. Medium-bodied, beautifully pure, elegant and yet serious, structured and lengthy, it's unquestionably the best Sauvignon and Semillon blend I've tasted from California.

Bibiana González Rave and Jeff Pisoni fashion this wine after the whites from Péssac-Léognan in Bordeaux (Rave worked harvest at Haut-Brion early in her career); they use two-thirds sauvignon blanc from the Ritchie Vineyard, the balance semillon from the Marino Vineyard, fermenting it in new French oak. That oak remains in the background, enriching the texture without getting in the way of the fresh scents of meadow flowers and ripe green pear. It’s creamy, lemony and fine, a sophisticated take on sauvignon blanc to pour with roast halibut or other rich fish. (101 cases)

Cellar Selection. This Gironde-inspired blend of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Sémillon is solid now, but will be far more interesting in the years to come. Aromas of wet slate and wet wool meet with Pink Lady apples and green, grassy meadows on the nose. The mineral-focused palate shows graphite and steel touches, with angular grass tones that lead into a warmed touch of toast on the finish. Drink 2018–2025.