Who would've thought that in the context of Barossa Shiraz, the 2015 RunRig would seem like a relative bargain? It's certainly much less expensive than Grange or Hill of Grace will be when they're released. It's also more approachable in its youth, with enormously appealing aromas of grilled fruit, savory complexities and rich, velvety tannins. Of course, it's full-bodied and concentrated, with the stuffing to age for up to a couple of decades, and it has a long, licorice-tinged finish. Winemaker Ian Hongell, who joined Torbreck from Peter Lehmann, may not have made this wine, but he deserves a lot of credit for the blending and finishing of this tour de force.- JC

Destemmed, open-fermented, 7 days on skins, matured for 30 months in French barriques (50% new) before blending trials determined 2% of viognier be blended in. One of the classic Torbreck wines, with the added benefits of the '15 vintage. It is a gorgeously deep pool of supple, mouthfilling/watering fruit flavours (impossible, I know, but it is). Seduction clinically confronts and comforts the consumer. Black fruits, licorice and a shaft of dark chocolate, plus oak, do the business.

A great RunRig that has unapologetic richness and ripeness with a very fragrant viognier kick on the nose, which adds perfume to the aromas of blackberries, blood plums and tarry notes. The palate sweeps in big waves of fleshy fruit, carrying an impressive core of spice-wrapped sweet black fruits, The ribbon-like tannins deliver length in a smoothly charming mode. Drink or hold.

An extra year in bottle for this premium, blockbuster wine does it a lot of good. Things feel more more open and relaxed. The nose smells like Christmas pudding, with notes of raisiny red fruit and plums, baking spices, toffee, chocolate and vanillin oak, as well as hints of green-herbal and dusting-polish characters at the rear. Fruit on the palate is silky but tightly lassoed with fine powerful granular tannins and large helpings of high-end oak. If the fruit can hold up as well as the tannins and oak, this wine should cellar until 2034 or longer. - CHRISTINA PICKARD

Juicy and vibrant, with plenty of oomph to the herb-scented blackberry and plum flavors at the core, offering spicy tobacco, tomato leaf and dark chocolate notes that linger on the finish. Shiraz and Viognier. Drink now through 2028. 350 cases made, 125 cases imported. — MW