Wild cherry, thyme, sagebrush and light bay leaf aromas converge on the nose of this bottling, which is relatively mellow to start but opens considerable with patience. Roasted cherry, cherry-pit and juniper flavors align on the palate, which is full-throttle in flavor and structure. Drink 2021–2036. MATT KETTMANN

Aged in 30% new French oak for 17 months, the 2016 Pinot Noir Mills Vineyard is pale to medium ruby in the glass. The nose opens to dusty soil and crushed stone notes, fleshing out to charcuterie, dried red cherries, mushroom and tree bark with black tea leaves hints. The palate is medium-bodied, savory and firmly framed, with seamlessly woven freshness and finishing nuanced. 940 cases produced.- EB

The 2016 Pinot Noir Mills Vineyard, from own-rooted vines, is one of the more open-knit wines in this range. Soft and gracious, with medium-bodied structure, the 2016 is nicely understated, but it also does not have the layered quality found in so many wines. Overall though, the Mills feels a bit stressed, an impression that is reinforced by the dried fruit, tobacco and licorice flavors. I would prefer to drink it sooner rather than later. -- Antonio Galloni