Of these new Baroli from Conterno Fantino, the 2016 Barolo Ginestra Vigna Sorì Ginestra shows the most underlying power, linearity and determination. While the other wines are a little softer and richer, especially on the mid-palate, this wine is all muscle and brawn. With its 15% alcohol content, its abundant bouquet and tight structural presentation, you should count on an extra long drinking window. Wait to pull the cork after the 10-year mark. At this young stage, the bouquet presents layered aromas of red fruit, tar, spice, ferrous earth and candied orange peel. There are hints of mint, eucalyptus and campfire ash. All said and done, this is a 11,700-bottle release of majesty and beauty that will make a proud and important protagonist of any collector's cellar. - ML

Very ripe strawberries with hints of dried flowers and incense on the nose. Some lilacs, too. A full-bodied Barolo, yet it’s tight and very well formed with precision and texture. Beautiful combination of ripe fruit and tannins. Drink after 2022.

This intense, structured red shows black cherry, black currant, cut grass and menthol flavors allied to a sleek profile. Stays fruity while giving way to the youthful austerity of the vintage. The fine length and ripe fruit essence signal potential. Best from 2023 through 2045. — B.S.