This silky red gives an initial impression of purity, with a core of cherry and strawberry fruit, accented by sandalwood, vanilla, stone and white pepper notes. Intense and fluid, showing fine harmony and excellent length. Smoke and mineral details grace the aftertaste. Best from 2021 through 2038. — B.S.

When I tasted the 2016 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru from barrel, I wasn't convinced that it could match Rousseau's finest recent renditions of this cuvée such as the 2012, 2010 or 2005. From bottle, the wine has closed the gap, wafting from the glass with a deep bouquet of cherries, ripe red berries, raw cocoa, beetroot and sweet soil tones. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, with a pretty core of fruit framed by fine-grained tannins and lively acids. This is a delicate, sapid Clos de la Roche that will drink well with a decade of bottle age. - William Kelley