The flagship cuvée is the 2016 Crozes Hermitage Roche Pierre, which spent two years in 30% new French oak. It offers a layered, multi-dimensional, full-bodied texture as well as classic notes of plums, blackberries, ground pepper, and incense. This complex beauty has subtle oak, a wealth of fruit, and terrific balance. Give bottles a year or two and enjoy over the following decade.

93+ Bottled just a week before my visit, the 2016 Crozes Hermitage Roche Pierre (old-vine Syrah on granitic soils, aged close to two years in barrel) seemed a bit reticent and tight. Pencil shavings frame plummy fruit in this medium to full-bodied effort. The suave, fine-grained tannins come close to being silky in feel on the lingering finish. This is the rare Crozes-Hermitage that's capable of rivaling Hermitage itself. - JC