A highly complex nose features notes of menthol, dark currant, raspberry, wood, spice and the barest hint of VA. The sleek, intense and wonderfully refined middle weight flavors brim with both minerality and dry extract, all wrapped in a well-balanced and impressively persistent finish. Good stuff in a built-to-age package.

(90-92) The 2016 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des 60 Ouvrées has an elegant bouquet with perfumed, violet-tinged black and red fruit, well defined with touches of brown spice and iris emerging with time. This shows a pleasing restraint. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red and black fruit on the entry, well-judged acidity, then toughening up a little toward a structured and almost Pommard-like finish that suggests that it will need several years in bottle. -Neal Martin