There’s a savory stance here that sets it apart from the regular Dundee Hills bottling. Earthy and spicy forest-wood aromas sit across ripe red cherries and fresh red flowers. The palate has a long, smooth and elegant core of red cherries. Very svelte and composed. This is beautifully regal pinot. Drink or hold.

Laurène, named for Veronique Drouhin’s daughter, leads with notes of sassafras and smoke before revealing a plummy core of cherry flavor. It’s lifted, the fruit guided on burnished tannins, the finish elegant and a bit backward, the wine needing years for peak expression.

This is a smoky, silky wine loaded with ripe and juicy blackberry fruit. The percentage of new oak is not disclosed, but there's just the right amount of barrel toast evident in the nose and the flavor. Lovely already, this should age nicely over the next decade. PAUL GREGUTT

(92+ points) The 2016 Pinot Noir Laurene is pale to medium ruby-purple with aromas of Earl Grey tea leaves and orange peel over a core of black cherries, black licorice and potpourri. Light to medium-bodied, it fills the mouth with fresh black fruits and spicy suggestions, framed by very fine, grainy tannins and packed with juicy acidity, finishing long with warm black fruit. 2,786 cases produced.- EB