The golden mean: that's what Alsace can offer to Riesling enthusiasts. A wine which is not raspingly or cuttingly dry, but not unctuously sweet either; a wine with backbone and structure, yet which can still tease and charm as only Riesling knows how. That's what you'll find in this Grand Cru version from the celebrated Altenberg de Bergheim vineyard: its sunny, south-facing marls have produced a tender, intricate yet round-contoured version with scents of summer fruits and citrus peels, and limpid, vivacious flavours given gravity by a textured fullness and a little greensap at the finish. It's a dry wine, but not demandingly so, and would drink well with food or without.

Notions of dried lemon peel are gentle on the nose of this wine but promise freshness. The palate delivers an incisive but balanced hit of vivid lemon and apple freshness. It stays slender, taut and lively throughout, with drive and concentration. Gentleness on the dry, fresh finish lends elegance. ANNE KREBIEHL MW

An impressively vibrant wine for its age, this striking dry Alsace riesling has a ton of smoke and wild-herb character. Sleek and focused on the palate with plenty of mineral drive. Pulls you back to the glass for more! From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.