(91-94) A cool, super-fresh and restrained nose offers up airy aromas of essence of black pinot fruit, violet, anise and a discreet hint of wood spice. The dense, powerful and muscular big-bodied flavors possess plenty of tannin-buffering dry extract, which is important because the tannic spine is unmistakably present on the robust and mineral-driven finish. While it would not be entirely fair to describe this as rustic, it flirts with it, yet a fine Brûlées almost always becomes seductive in time. Recommended if you have the patience to cellar it for the longer-term.

(91-93) The 2016 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Brûlées has a supremely gifted bouquet, beautifully defined with red and black berry fruit, chalk, bay leaf and hints of cold black tea. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, slightly chalky tannin. This is crisp, tightly wound, very focused and quite penetrating toward the finish, though it does not offer the depth or volume of the 2015 last year. Still, this is a very fine Aux Brûlées that will age with style. - NM