A pure and focused version, with cherry, strawberry and currant fruit shaded by mineral and tobacco accents. Vibrant and harmonious, this is all about the fruit, with a well-integrated structure and terrific length on the finish. Best from 2024 through 2045. — B.S.

Wow. This is really rich and layered with velvety tannins that coat the palate. It’s full-bodied with ripe tannins and a finish of black cherries, cedar, walnuts, dried mushrooms and dried leaves. Needs time to soften. Better after 2024.

The aromatics of the 2016 Pelagrilli are dark fruited and luxurious, with supple oak, warm baking spice, vanilla, and fresh black plum. The palate is consistent and inviting, with silky tannin and a rounded mouthfeel, with notes of cocoa and dried black cherry. Modern styled, it displays generous wood tones that are polished and which I believe will be well-integrated with some time. Enjoy over the next 15 years.

Siro Pacenti is the estate behind some of the most contemporary and fruit-froward wines made in Montalcino. That said, the wines can sometimes feel a bit monotone and lacking in nuance because of the very powerful oak (especially when tasted this young). For sure, the Siro Pacenti 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Pelagrilli is decidedly more focused on black fruit aromas rather than red fruit brightness, and it follows through with a healthy delivery of cedar, toasted spice, pencil shaving and campfire ash. Blackberry, fresh prune and plum cede to those oak-driven aromas. Like the other wines from this producer, I found that the oak tannins are not approachable in the near term. You really need to give this wine more time in the bottle. Siro Pacenti farms beautiful and carefully manicured vineyards on the north side of Montalcino. This is a 25,000-bottle production. - ML

Pelagrilli takes its name from the locale in the northern sector of Montalcino where Siro Pacenti purchased property in 1970. It is made from 25- to 35-year-old vines and includes a small percentage of fruit from the estate's Piancornello vineyard in the south. Dark brambly aromas make way for fragrant bay laurel and eucalyptus. There's lovely purity of juicy black currants at this wine’s nucleus, and grainy, grippy tannins give textural drama.

Tart cherries come together with nuances of dried flowers, citrus and old spice box as the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Pelagrilli opens in the glass. It’s silky and round, yet a core of salty minerality creates a savory tension, as bright red berries and inner florals amass toward the close. This finishes lightly structured with tart fruits and a hint of wild herbs. The Pelagrilli comes from the winery’s vineyards in the north, where the higher content of clay adds an attractively plush weight, which, coupled with 24 months in barrique, makes for a wonderfully opulent but balanced wine. -- Eric Guido