This Gevrey has a casual beauty that’s hard to ignore. Eric Germain makes it from a parcel of 60-year-old vines, taking the fruit through a slow, spontaneous fermentation and aging the wine in barrels (10 percent new). It captures the scent of freshly turned earth and the concentrated flavor of tiny wild strawberries while feeling light and airy in its grape-skin tannins. Complex and comforting.