A tropical touch of passion fruit plays on the pear-inflected nose of this wine. The concentrated palate, however, is all about lemon freshness and yeasty texture. Soy and miso notions add a salty element while lemon zest and pith notes provide a precise texture. That lemon peel quality dominates with its purity on the long finish. Lovely and compact but very concentrated.

The 2016 Ried Steinertal Grüner Veltliner Smaragd has a coolish and flinty flavored nose of perfectly ripe and concentrated white and yellow-fleshed fruits. Full-bodied and juicy on the palate, this Veltliner balances its richness and fruit intensity with finesse, freshness, fine minerals and tannins. The finish is well structured, long, intense and powerful. I'd keep the 2016 for another three or four years before I'd serve it. Tasted in July 2017, one week after the bottling. - Stephan Reinhardt