More dark fruits, Bing cherry, candied violets, and Asian spice notes emerge from the 2017 Quella, which always has an exotic, complex style. Medium to full-bodied and nicely textured, with some chalky tannins, it’s another terrific 2017 that will benefit from just short-term cellaring and have two decades of prime drinking.

The 2017 Quella comes from a steep, southwest-facing vineyard in the eastern Vaca hillsides, just up from Joseph Phelps's winery and Denali Estate. Deep garnet-purple colored, it explodes with bombastic scents of stewed plums, boysenberries, crème de cassis and kirsch plus hints of black truffles, tar and damp soil. The palate is full-bodied and velvety, jam-packed with blackberry and plum preserves flavors with lots of savory nuances on the long finish. - LPB

Enticing, with a mix of steeped loganberry, mulberry and blackberry fruit flavors that are laced with black licorice, bramble and singed apple wood notes. There's a loamy edge underneath it all and solid, focusing grip harnessing the finish. A contemplative wine, rather than showy. Best from 2022 through 2040. — J.M.

The 2017 Quella is a dark powerhouse. Blackberry jam, grilled herbs, sage, menthol, licorice and chocolate infuse the 2017 with tremendous aromatic complexity to play off its natural richness. Savory and brooding, the Quella is a distinctly brooding Cabernet. -- Antonio Galloni