This is one of my all-time favorite Brunellos, and although personal tastes are fluid and may change from time to time, there is something timeless and solid about this wine. It's like a touchstone. The Casanova di Neri 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova is graced with a similar interlude of elegant rose or crushed flower that we saw in the annata wine. It appears more prominently here, and with more shape and focused intensity. Make no mistake, Giacomo Neri builds wines for pleasure and sensual impact, and this wine (helped by a hot growing season and 15% alcohol) ticks all those boxes. But it also shows floral elegance and sour cherry freshness that defies our expectations of the vintage.

Tenuta Nuova hails from Casanova di Neri’s Le Cetine vineyard in Montalcino’s south. With a full southern exposure from east to west, it is a sun soaked, Mediterranean expression of Brunello. The 2017 takes a bit of coaxing at first but then cherry bark, cinnamon, liquorice root and gardenia arise from the glass. Upfront, gritty tannins dissolve slowly into a fine dusty powder, revealing supple, round black currants. Citrussy acidity keeps this lively while dark chocolate and mint notes linger.

The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Cascina Nuova lifts up with a layered display of peppery herbs, musky plums, black raspberry, crushed stone, tobacco and smoke. It’s silky yet juicy, pliant and staining to the senses, offering violet and lavender tones balanced by cooling acids and hints of candied citrus. The 2017 really plays with the palate; it’s spicy, long and intense, and lightly structured yet classically dry. Balsamic herbs, salted licorice – it goes on and on like a spice box menagerie. An elegant pleasure bomb. -- Eric Guido

Expressive, complex and long, despite its compact profile today. Delivers black cherry, blackberry, violet, mineral and tobacco flavors that prevail, while assertive yet refined tannins leave their mark on the lingering finish. Best from 2025 through 2042. — B.S.