The 2017 Domaine Georges Noëllat Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru is a Pinot Noir from one of Burgundy’s most closely watched addresses, led by winemaker Maxime Cheurlin since 2010. Fruit comes largely from the Grands Echézeaux lieu-dits Les Cruots and Vignes Blanches, from very old vines averaging around 90 years. The estate’s holding is typically cited at about 0.4 hectares, though reporting varies; Jasper Morris notes the wine “carries the négociant label” because the domaine’s own 11 ouvrées are supplemented by fruit from an additional 3.5 ouvrées under their vine management, totaling “10 barrels in all this year” (Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy).
In the cellar, the approach is classically ambitious: partial to full de-stemming, a short pre-fermentation maceration, ambient-yeast fermentation, and extended élevage. Decanter specifies that it was “aged…in 100% new wood” (Decanter), a choice that shows in several tastings as present but integrated by the wine’s depth.
Critics were notably enthusiastic. Jasper Morris delivered an excellent early assessment at 95–97 points, calling it “exceptionally noble in style…very dense, with a sublime lingering velvety red fruit” and a “superb finish.” Decanter also rated it an excellent 96, describing a “weighty and serious” wine with “underlying fruit power, scented oak and a smooth, caressing finish,” and went further: “One of the best expressions of the site in 2017.”
Neal Martin rated it 93–95 points for Vinous (95), highlighting a “very pure, intense bouquet” of dark cherry, blackberry, “crushed stone and violet,” and a palate that’s “sorbet-fresh” with a “vivacious, tensile finish,” concluding, “This is a superb Grands-Echézeaux” (Vinous). Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate (94; 92–94) emphasizes its scale and completeness: “full-bodied, ample and multidimensional…structuring tannins generously cloaked in juicy fruit,” finishing “long and precise,” with aromatic notes spanning blackberries, plums, incense, rose petals, and wood smoke (Wine Advocate).