There’s such beautifully focused limes and green mangoes on the nose here with a very flinty edge that lends a very pure and precise-edged tone. The palate follows in with a strikingly concentrated feel and a long, white-peach core that holds straight and fresh. Breathtaking. Drink or hold.

From bottle, the 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses is one of the twin pinnacles of the Fèvre portfolio, wafting from the glass with a lovely bouquet of citrus blossom, mandarin, oyster shell and wet stones—exactly as it did from barrel. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, ample and elegantly glossy, with incisive acids, fine-boned structure and a precise, elegantly mineral finish. The Clos many be the most powerful, but the Preuses is the more elegant, detailed wine in the range this year. -WK