A homage to the great fault line near Hirsch, this pinot has a brambly, rich array of red cherries and some blue-fruit notes with fresh, sappy, forest aromas, too. The palate has plenty of punchy tannin and forthright, fresh, unwavering drive. Drink or hold.

Starting off the 2017s, the 2017 Pinot Noir San Andreas Fault Estate is another relatively large production cuvée by this estate's standards, with just under 4,000 cases. A perfumed, medium-bodied, beautifully elegant Pinot Noir, it has classic Sonoma Coast aromas and flavors, with lots of spiced cherries, strawberries, sappy herbs, and floral notes defining the bouquet. As with all of Hirsch's Pinot Noirs, it's more mid-weight, yet it still carries a vibrancy and tension that's going to age beautifully.

This is the largest production cuvée in the Hirsch portfolio. Pale to medium ruby, the 2017 Pinot Noir San Andreas Fault has a delicately played nose with touches of cinnamon stick, dried leaves, perfumed earth and a mineral vein plus rose petal perfume, red berries and black fruit sparks. The palate is light to medium-bodied with delicate intensity and well-balanced fruit and earth character, knit by grainy tannins and juicy freshness, finishing long and nuanced. 3,740 cases produced.- EB