The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Pucelles 1er Cru has a well-defined bouquet featuring crushed stone and touches of brioche and orchard fruit, all complex and nicely delineated; a suggestion of licorice emerges with time. The taut, focused palate has a pleasant sour lemon note on the entry. This is the most elegant and refined of the five Pucelles tasted blind, with very fine salinity on the finish. An engaging and quite cerebral and nervy Pucelles from Jean-Michel Chartron. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting in Savigny-lès-Beaune. -- Neal Martin