So much gun flint and nutmeg on the nose here, and a garden’s worth of white flowers and herbs. Meanwhile, the palate boasts a serious set of phenolics and impressive depth, married to detailed acidity and introvert limes — all of which means you barely notice the integrated line of off-dry sweetness. Drink now or cellar for decades.

The 2017 Graacher Himmelreich Spätlese is deep, clear and flinty on the fascinating, elegant and complex nose. It is lush, precise, piquant and refined on the palate, with more transparency, freshness and crunchy slate minerality compared to the Bernkastel and Zeltingen. The wine is highly stimulating and salty, with concentrated grapefruit aromas. This wine is really enchanting. Open the bottle and glou-glou... Tasted in March 2019. -SR

Pristine aromas of lemon and lime introduce this crystalline spätlese. It's lip-smackingly sweet, marked by concentrated honeysuckle and hibiscus flavors. Electric grapefruit acidity leads a long pure finish. Delicious already, it will only improve through 2030, and likely hold much further.

Very expressive and open, offering a rich yet zingy framework. This features apricot, lime and candied orange flavors, with a minerally texture and vivid structure. Shows intensity and depth, but remains almost weightless and very graceful. Harmonious from start to long-lasting finish. Drink now through 2035. 210 cases made.–AZ