This one is all about the focused green fruit and bright spices — think green paprika, Granny Smith apples, kiwi fruit, green pears and kale. The fruit is cast long and deeply set, despite the agility and leanness of the palate, which is only medium-bodied and off-dry. Tense and expectant with miles of life ahead. Drink in a very long time indeed.

The 2017 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spätlese is impressively deep, dense and expressive on the nose that is more mineral rather than fruity. On the palate, this is a lush, tensioned, very precise, elegant, sharply defined and complex Riesling. It's not as exuberant as the Sonnenuhr can be, but it represents more of the gray/blue slate soil. The finish is really lush, perfectly concentrated and salty. This is a great Prüm icon Spätlese. Tasted in March 2019.- SR

Guava and mango flavors are offset by vivifying citrusy acidity, creating a firm frame on which glazed apricot and star anise notes emerge. Powerful yet elegant, this is built for the cellar. Give this some air if you must drink it now, but better to wait for a decade or so. Best from 2022 through 2039. 170 cases made.–AZ

The nose is subtle here, suggesting delicate whiffs of grapefruit and pollen, but the palate is buoyant, bursting with grapefruit and pineapple. It's sunny and sweet yet has a steely balance and tingling acidic backbone. Delicious already, it's concentrated enough to improve well through 2027.