Tighter and better balanced than the Drouhins' Les Embazées premier cru in 2017, this is entirely sourced from the prestigious Laguiche holdings. It has a beautifully judged combination of leesy texture, aromatic spices and 30% new wood, finishing with bright, refreshing acidity.

A very attractive, complex nose with a bright array of lemons and white peaches, as well as flinty and stony nuances. The palate delivers weight and freshness. Really attractive and lithe with a vibrant array of limes and young nectarines at the finish. Drink or hold.

(92 - 94 points) The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot Marquis de Laguiche wafts from the glass with a lovely bouquet of pretty orchard fruit, pastry cream, dried white flowers, honeycomb and a nutty framing of new wood. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, pure and satiny, with good depth and concentration at the core, tangy balancing acids and a beautifully defined finish. This is dependably among the finest whites in the Drouhin cellar, and this year's rendition is no exception.- WK