The 2017 Valmaggiore is all Nebbiolo from the sandier soils near Vezza d’Alba, brought up all in French oak. This medium purple-hued effort offers an impressive nose of red and black fruits, toasted spices, dried flowers, and cedarwood. Beautiful on the palate as well, with medium-bodied richness, it actually reminds me of the 2015, yet maybe with a touch more richness. Balanced, seamless, and already a joy to drink, it should evolve for a solid 8-10 years, although there’s no need to delay gratification.

With scorching heat and little rain overall, there was reason for worry during the 2017 growing season at large, but in the Roero zone by the banks of the Tanaro river, the hilly Valmaggiore vineyards received more rain than other parts of Piedmont, so these grapes did not suffer as much. Lovely notes of red rose and some herbal tones appear on the nose of the 2017 Nebbiolo d'Alba Valmaggiore, coupled with balsam, spice and rosemary. It's voluminous in the mouth, and while the Le Vigne Barolo tends to be the most floral and delicately ethereal of Sandrone's release, this bouquet is distinctive in its own way. It would be a nice pair with a mushroom risotto.- ML

Features rich, bright cherry fruit and dense tannins. Earth, eucalyptus and floral notes add depth to this balanced yet muscular version. Possesses the weight and structure of a Barolo, but is a tad less complex and long. Decant. Best from 2021 through 2028. — BS