(98-100 points) The 2019 Barolo Conteisa is a noble wine, with angular and drying tannins, as well as more mineral expression. Notes of medicinal herbs, crushed stones, and pure cherry lead to a wine that is more restrained right now but will be fantastic. Through the palate, it has compact but wonderful concentration and a driving structure and is more herbaceous, savory, and mineral than fruity and floral. It is outstanding. Drink the 2020s while waiting for the 2019s.<!--more-->The Gaja estate was founded in 1859, although it was Angelo Gaja, the fourth-generation winemaker of this Barbaresco estate, who made the innovations that would help shape the region as it is today. The entire family shares responsibilities across their estates. Great attention is paid to their practice of sustainable and regenerative farming. I met with Giovanni Gaja for this tasting at the estate in Barbaresco and also made a visit to the nearby region of the Alta Langa, only 16 kilometers away from the original estate. The latest major development for the estate in Piedmont is a brand new winery exclusively dedicated to their still white wine production in Alta Langa, designed by the Italian architect Giovanni Bo, who the family have worked with since 1982. The vineyards of Gaia & Rey and Brassica will remain the same, but fermentation and production will move to this location. There is greater biodiversity in Alta Langa compared to Barolo and Barbaresco, with 60% of the land being undeveloped land and hazelnut farms, and only 40% vineyards, compared to Barbaresco, which has 80% of the land under vine. For this reason, as well as the higher elevations, this area is seeing an influx of attention across the region. In 2015, they purchased 30 hectares of land that had been planted to hazelnut trees, at an average elevation of 650 meters, which they have converted to vineyard and indigenous plants of the area. The winery, which I toured in March of 2023, will be completed in time to begin production for this year’s harvest. Cascina Langa, the historical name for the property, has soils that are rich in sand and tuff, which they believe will be well-suited for adding structure for the white varietals of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. They also planted several other experimental vines to learn what will work well in the region.

The Gaja 2019 Barolo Conteisa is a smooth operator with forest floor, dried fruit, autumn leaf and pickled plum from Japan with elements of both saltiness and sweetness. Conteisa goes for the high notes with floral tones, violet and something brittle like a laurel leaf. Its texture is very silky and tight. The wine persists with a smooth and long tenor.- ML

The 2019 Barolo Conteisa is stunning. A wine of grace, power and finesse, the 2019 is immediately captivating. Crushed flowers, cinnamon, red berry fruit and rose petal are all beautifully lifted, all wrapped by silky La Morra tannins that add to its finesse. Readers will find an exquisite Barolo endowed with tremendous class. The 2019 is just sublime. - By Antonio Galloni on September 2023

Located within the Cerequio cru with vines averaging 60 years, the wine opens with aromas of warmed cherries, wild thyme, rose and mixed spices. Forward on the palate with preserved mixed berries, pu'er tea, anise and a crushed stone minerality. Well-balanced with fine, yet firm tannins and a vivid acidity that keeps that palate fresh and mouthwatering. Drink 2026–2050. — Jeff Porter

Earthy and spicy, with core cherry and raspberry flavors accented by iron, white pepper and eucalyptus. Firm and linear, this ends with a sinewy feel, despite its superb balance and refined texture. Superlong aftertaste. Best from 2027 through 2045. 250 cases imported.