This is one of two single-vineyard expressions at the top of the Paolo Bea portfolio. The 2017 Montefalco Sagrantino Pagliaro opens to brooding dark fruit and depth. The wine's complexity comes forth with blackcurrant, spice, earth, cola and medicinal herb. There is a lot to admire in the bouquet that shifts fluidly with each swirl of the glass. Despite a hefty 15% alcohol content, the wine is surprising supple and smooth. - Monica Larner

It’s not often that I would open a Paolo Bea note with “unbelievably pretty” or “sweetly scented and finessed”, but that’s exactly what the 2017 Montefalco Sagrantino Pagliaro is in the glass. This is a veritable spice box on the nose, mixed with masses of dried flowers and exotic spices. Its textures are pure silk, showing a refinement not often found at this early stage in the wine’s development. Dark red fruit melds with their mineral underpinnings to create an impression of total elegance. The mentholated finale leaves a subtle layer of fine tannins to mingle with hints of blackberry and currant, as the wine finishes long yet lively and fresh. The 2017 spent 42 days macerating on the skins. -- Eric Guido