Subdued aromatics on the attack. Brambles, tannins and liquorice abound, this is good quality but not jumping out of the glass and the austere side of 2017 is dominant right now. Well built, and this is one that I suggest giving a full eight years in bottle before getting into its drinking window.

Clear spice on the attack, followed by soft berry fruits, finessed floral character, skilful winemaking. Light in structure compared to the previous two years, but there is so much pleasure and balance on display, and it will be great to drink pretty much from now. Smudges of aniseed, fennel and liqourice adds depth, freshness and lift on the finish. Frost impacted the first wine for the first time for decades in 2017, which affected viticultural choices for the rest of the year and needed skilful winemaking to tease out the identity of the Margaux appellation. 37hl/h yield, 50% new oak. Stephane Derenoncourt consultant.

Caressing in feel, with a silky structure underneath layers of warm plum, blackberry and black cherry puree flavors. Subtle black tea and alder notes curl around the finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2030. — JM