Spicy and earthy notes of ginseng, dried pineapple, candied citrus, fig and toffee apple. The sweetness is balanced and complemented by earthy, complex layers. Lots of spicy botrytis character. Extremely long. Complex and thought-provoking with so much dried-fruit and spicy flavor at the end. Dense and tight, yet agile. Delicious now, but if you give it another five or six years, you will see even more. 5,541 bottles produced.

Amber colored in the glass, this single-vineyard Nyulaszo wine has aromas of jasmine, orange zest and freshly picked apricot. In the mouth there are flavors of orange marmalade, white peach and apricot with a good balance of sweetness and acidity. JEFF JENSSEN

Still a real baby wine showing aromas of spiced pear, quince and a subtle touch of vanilla. To taste it’s all about peaches and cream, fresh pear and quince, along with beautiful precision and a very fine, elegant and crisp finish. Has a long life ahead of it.

Zoltán Kovács’s first vintage as winemaker at Royal Tokaji was a lucky one. By the end of August, botrytis had already begun to set in; rain in September encouraged it further. The quality of the fruit allowed him the rare ability to make single-vineyard aszú expressions of all the estate’s top-rated parcels, such as Nyulászó, the first vineyard Royal Tokaji purchased after its founding in 1990. A warm slope of red volcanic stone, the parcel produced a 2017 that matches exceptional richness with structure and complexity. Deep, earthy spice underlines the honeyed fruit the way a tuba fills out the sweeter sounds of an orchestra; a touch of burnt-sugar bitterness adds balance and an edge that suggests this could pair as well with braised mangalitsa pork as it would roasted peaches.

vThe 2017 Tokaji Nyulászó 6-Puttonyos comes from vines on brown volcanic soils overlooking the town of Mád. This has a lighter and perhaps less complex bouquet compared to Royal Tokaji's other cuvées, though it develops nicely in the glass to reveal lemon verbena, dried mango and wild peachy scents. The palate is much more open, its impressive weight and concentration effortlessly counterbalanced by a fine line of acidity. This is very harmonious and poised, and almost Sauternes-like toward the finish. Give it 5–8 years in the cellar to allow those aromas to open. - NM

Aromas and flavors of baked nectarine, lemon tart, lime blossom and candied ginger melt on the palate of this graceful sweeter, with cotton candy-like texture, honed by a fine spine of sleek acidity and a tang of salinity. Drink now through 2032.