Toasty, nutty richness lays itself like a warming blanket over this wine's nose, but underneath some ripe, lemon-edged stonefruit peeps through promisingly. The palate is still dominated by that toasty sheen, but it is only a question of time before the vivid, concentrated fruit integrates this, making the wine more of a unit. It has rich texture, lovely depth, generous fruit and ripe freshness. Drink 2025–2040. ANNE KREBIEHL MW

Pale in colour, with good intensity on the nose, which continues through to the palate. There is no dilution here, just a bit of heat with the weight, some bacon fat, but exceptional intensity to round it off. Olivier allowed the Vaudésir more wood in 2018, which has integrated well with the waves of fruit, which keep returning.

The 2018 Chablis Vaudésir Grand Cru has a lovely bouquet of yellow plum, grapefruit, green apple and sea spray, all beautifully defined. The palate is well balanced with a very composed entry. This is a harmonious and seductive Vaudésir with just the right amount of spice on the finish. One of the best from Billaud-Simon this year and thoroughly recommended. -- Neal Martin

Satiny and charming, the 2018 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir wafts from the glass with notes of peach, citrus oil and nutmeg. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and elegantly textural, it's bright and lively, with a nicely defined finish.- WK