A certain restraint governs the chalky, nutty and smoky nature of this wine's nose. Very slowly, a pure note of zesty lemon comes through, illuminating the entire wine. Chalky density, coolness and rich, buffered stoniness give texture and concentration, made distinct by lemon freshness. The wine already has harmony and poise that will only increase over the years. It is elegant and enduring. Drink 2025–2040. ANNE KREBIEHL MW

As I often do when they're young, I slightly prefer this bottling to the Moreaus' Clos des Hospices in 2018 (it scored 94). This comes from a single, 2ha block that's picked in three tranches and vinified separately. Marrying oaked and stainless components in equal measure, it's a wonderfully complex expression of this brilliant site showing a combination of power, texture and racy, chalky acidity. The Vaillons 1er Cru scored 94.

(93-94 points) This is in such good form in 2018 with a very attractive and very rich, layered and complete feel. The flinty nose has intense lemons, grapefruit and white peaches, as well as limes. The palate has very composed, weighty and quite compressed, fleshy power. Try from 2026.

The “regular” bottling of Les Clos from the Moreau family is excellent in 2018. The wine is raised exactly the same as the Clos des Hospices, which is fifty percent barrel fermentation, fifty percent tank fermentation, and the new oak kept to four percent. The 2018 was showing well, offering up a fine aromatic constellation of apple, lemon, tangerine, straw, wet stone minerality and just a whisper of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and nascently complex, with an excellent core of fruit, fine soil signature and impressive length and grip on the vibrant and very well-balanced finish. Fine, fine juice in the making.

The 2018 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru has a concentrated bouquet with yellow fruit, orange rind and light crushed stone. It coalesces nicely in the glass. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, lightly spiced with fine grip, tensile, even a little mean on the finish. Wonderful salinity. Superb. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2018 white tasting. -- Neal Martin

Not showy in any way, this white is harmonious and graceful, yet with an underlying intensity that keeps building on the palate to a long conclusion. Peach, melon, lemon and baking spices are punctuated by a stony, minerally saline element that caps the lingering aftertaste. Drink now through 2027. — B.S.

There is very good Chablis typicity to the overtly floral nose that offers up notes of mineral reduction, white peach and sea breeze that are trimmed in softly exotic nuances. The sleek, intense and delicious larger-scaled flavors possess fine underlying tension, all wrapped in a succulent, palate coating, dry, refined and powerful finish where the only nit is a touch of warmth. This is a relatively fleshy rendition of Les Clos but no less attractive for it.

(91 - 93 points) The 2018 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is also showing well, exhibiting notions of orange rind, confit lemon and green apple, followed by a full-bodied, layered palate that's racier and chalkier than the fleshier, blockier Valmur.- WK