The 2018 Grand Liards is also outstanding, as these old vines also moderate crop levels year in and year out, so there was no issue with getting the tannins properly ripe before the sugars climbed out of control. The result is a superb young wine, delivering a fine aromatic constellation of red and black cherries, gamebird, a touch of red currant, woodsmoke, chalky soil tones and that signature topnote of spice. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and ripely tannic in profile, with a fine core of fruit, excellent soil signature and a long, focused and gently chewy finish. Like the Pimentiers, this is clearly premier cru quality in 2018.

The 2018 Savigny-lès-Beaune Aux Grands Liards has a very elegant bouquet of mixed red and black fruit, those old vines (planted in 1913 and 1922) imparting real complexity. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a fine bead of acidity and a vibrant, lightly spiced finish. Good persistence here. Afford it 4–5 years in bottle and you will have a top Savigny on your hands. -- Neal Martin