There is a touch of post-bottling sulfur but it's not enough to really mask the cooler aromas of white pepper, floral, quinine and gently exotic fruit aromas. The slightly sleeker if less opulent middle weight flavors possess more evident minerality on the intensely saline-inflected, bone dry and solidly persistent finish.

The 2018 Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru has a light fresh and lively bouquet. Fine mineralité with touches of chalk and flint emerge with aeration. The palate is well balanced with a slightly tangy entry, notes of orange rind, quince and a dab of spice. Fine cohesion on the finish, this Chablis can be broached now but it should age for several years in bottle. However, as it aerates, an element of TCA becomes apparent, hence the question mark against my score. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2018 white tasting. -- Neal Martin