The Niellon holdings of Champgains sit in the middle of Chassagne and occupy 0.44ha on a gentle slope. If you like subtle struck match aromas, this will be your kind of wine, as it is mine. Pithy and stony, with racy minerality, grapefruit and citrus peel flavours, fine oak integration and just a drizzle of acacia honey. Classy winemaking from Michel Coutou. Drinking Window 2022 - 2030

The alluring aromas of peach, lemon and toasty, baking spices mesh beautifully in this vibrant white. It's harmonious, making you want to enjoy it now, yet this should develop nicely too. Has fine length and a mouthwatering finish. Drink now through 2027. — B.S.

Another pale colour but a little bit more evident energy on the nose. Racy, lime infused style, altogether tighter on the palate and less immediate flesh but good backbone and finish. This will need an extra year or two compared to Chenevottes or Maltroie.

Niellon's 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Champs Gain is showing very well indeed, soaring from the glass with aromas of Anjou pear, toasted hazelnuts and citrus oil. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied layered and incisive, with racy acids, excellent depth at the core and a long, precise finish. - WK