Clos St. Jean makes red as well as white wines, but this hails from very poor limestone soils that are much better suited to Chardonnay than Pinot Noir. Planted in 1990 and running to 0.5ha in total, it's flinty, intense and subtly reductive, with an engaging combination of minerality, freshness and understated concentration. One of a number of excellent Niellon wines in 2018. Drinking Window 2022 - 2030

A fine follow-up to the terrific 2017—which continues to show brilliantly from my cellar—Niellon's 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jean offers up aromas of white currants, citrus oil and pear mingled with notions of toasted bread and nutmeg. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and succulent, with racy acids, fine depth and concentration. This is well worth seeking out. - WK

Though toasty, there are plenty of bright lemon and apple flavors gracing this white, allied to ample flesh for ballast. This also serves to keep the bracing acidity in check. The mineral- and spice-tinged finish is long and well-defined. Drink now through 2027. — B.S.

he Niellon holding is top right, below the quarry. Pale colour with light green reflection. I am not supposed to like this vineyard in white but actually I do here. Racy again but with more flesh on the bones and a little touch of mirabelle.