(89-91) A more elegant nose combines notes of white pepper and pear with those of oyster shell and iodine. Once again there is very good energy and solid detail to the more refined and appealingly textured medium weight flavors where the rich but balanced finish is shaped by lemon-tinged acidity.

The 2018 Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru comes from a small 0.19ha parcel of 25-year-old vines and sees 9 months in oak barrel. It has a pretty, more mineral-driven bouquet than the Mont de Milieu, although it needs a tad more intensity and drive. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, lively and spicy. A very discreet Muscat-like note appears toward the finish. Thoroughly enjoyable, even if it does miss a bit of Chablis typicité due to the growing season. -- Neal Martin