Don’t expect a lush Alsace pinot gris, because this generous and highly structured dry pinot gris is still tightly wound and the main aromas are smoke, toast, nutty apple and fresh mint. Built to last, though the long finish is supple, it’s fully packed with chalky character. Those who are patient will be richly rewarded! From biodynamically grown grapes. Better after 2021.

From vines averaging 49 years of age, the 2018 Pinot Gris Clos Windsbuhl opens with a deep, intense and concentrated, clearly limestone-driven and pure bouquet with concentrated ripe fruit aromas but also yeasty, nutty and phenolic notes. On the palate, this is a full-bodied, rich, refined and very elegant, balanced, stimulating saline and tightly structured Pinot Gris with fine, ripe tannins and stunning, vibrantly mineral acidity. The finish is long, intense and finely bitter, still textural and very long. Bottled in January 2020. 14.3% stated alcohol plus 6.3 grams per liter of residual sugar. Natural cork. Tasted in January 2023. - Stephan Reinhardt

The 2018 Pinot Gris Clos Windsbuhl offers lovely concentration and depth. Apricot, passion fruit, tangerine oil and dried flowers all develop nicely in the glass. I would give the 2018 a year or two in bottle to soften, as it is a bit severe today. -- Antonio Galloni

The creamy juiciness of freshly cut, ripe Williams pear dances appetizingly on the nose of this wine. Fruit purity is also apparent on the palate, imbued by vivid, rounded juiciness and supported by a lovely backdrop of pithy, slightly phenolic texture. This adds grace and backbone and lets the juicy pear notes express themselves fully. The finish is wonderfully dry and lasting. ANNE KREBIEHL MW