The 2018 Gattinara from Conterno Nervi (often still referenced as Nervi-Conterno) is an important release: it’s the first vintage after Roberto Conterno’s 2018 acquisition in which the label leads with the Conterno name, as noted by Monica Larner of *Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate*. Made from 100% Nebbiolo (Spanna) in Alto Piemonte’s Gattinara DOCG, the wine is shaped by cooler conditions and volcanic porphyry soils, and it’s matured in a resolutely traditional manner—about 36 months in large, neutral oak casks. Alcohol is listed around 14.5%.

Critics agree that the vintage and the estate’s direction align especially well here. Larner calls out precision and poise, writing that “what stands out here is the freshness [and] the balance of acidity,” which “plays nicely into the minerality of the wine and the brightness of its wild rose and redcurrant flavors.” She also highlights its depth without heaviness: “This Gattinara carries a lot of fruit and primary intensity,” supported by “subtle touches of balsam herb and soft tarry end notes,” concluding that it “underlines the elegance in Nebbiolo.” That assessment earned a strong 94-point score.

Vinous’ Antonio Galloni goes further, delivering an excellent 95-point review and framing the wine as a benchmark for the appellation. He calls it “a stunning wine in the making” and “extraordinary in its complexity and nuance,” saying it “dazzles with a kaleidoscope of aromas, flavors and textures.” His note points to kirsch, “hard candy,” flowers, and “lively acids,” while emphasizing its structure and lift: “elegant, weightless and full of character.”

Overall, this 2018 reads as a classic, long-lived Gattinara—firmly mineral, high-toned, and built on acidity—presented with the polish and seriousness expected under Conterno’s stewardship.