Slightly more lemon in the colour and a softer fatter nose after the chiselled Truffière. Then the wine firms up on the palate, considerable power here, the oak not quite integrated yet but it certainly will. Very good depth at the back, a white wine of enormous power but still with balance. Keeps coming back.

The 2018 Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes 1er Cru has a sophisticated bouquet with crushed limestone and flint, like a pimped up version of the Les Referts! The palate is very well balanced with impressive concentration and a killer line of acidity. A spicy, ginger and lemongrass-tinged finish lingers in the mouth. This is an engaging and multi-faceted Les Combettes. -- Neal Martin