If you wait too long, it can be a monster,' says Jean-Nicolas Méo of his parcel of Corton Clos Rognet, which was why he harvested it on August 29th. Combining natural concentration and fruit weight with savoury, spicy tannins, this sweetly fruited, refreshing wine handles its 80% new barrels with considerable aplomb.

(92 - 94+ points) The 2018 Corton Grand Cru Clos Rognet is built for the long haul but evidently possesses considerable potential. Mingling aromas of cassis and cherries with notes of bitter rose, spices and truffles, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and introverted, with fine but chalky tannins and lively acids. Méo's two bottlings from the hill of Corton are arguably his most underrated wines, and readers with the patience to forget them for 15 or so years should give them serious consideration.- WK

This silky red opens with cherry and strawberry flavors, framed by earth and spice. It's taut, and saturated with ripe fruit, revealing terrific harmony and a long, fruit- and spice-tinged aftertaste. Best from 2022 through 2037. 8 cases imported. — BS