A Meursault that's almost a Puligny, both in terms of geography and style, this is a wine that benefited from its altitude in 2018. Formerly a red vineyard until it was replanted in 1983, this is subtle, leesy and engagingly refreshing for the vintage, with well-handled 20% new wood, crunchy acidity and a taut, stony, lees-influenced finish. (Drink between 2022-2030)

The 2018 Meursault-Blagny Sous Le Dos d'Ane 1er Cru has a feistier bouquet than the Clos des Mouches Blanc. Quite energetic and tensile, with lovely purity, yellow fruit and hints of peppermint that come through alongside wild fennel. There is a "noble reduction" at play here. The palate is well balanced with a pleasing sappiness on the entry. Fine weight, harmonious with impressive acidity, I admire its gentle build. Definitely worth seeking out. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2018 white tasting. -- Neal Martin