Flint and fresh Amalfi lemon combine into an intriguing but appetizing nose. It is the Amalfi lemon that sets the zesty tone on the concentrated, mouth-watering palate, a kind of stony lemon elixir with all its bundled power, drive and concentration. A grapefruit peel note on the finish adds a glint of spice. Drink 2025–2045. - ANNE KREBIEHL MW

The 2018 Loibner Riesling Ried Loibenberg Smaragd is ripe and intense on the nose yet pure and fresh, displaying clear floral/herbal aromas. On the palate, this is an elegant and linear, crystalline and salty dry Riesling with grip and tension and a persistent finish. Not that clear and bright, though, and slightly bitter. Tasted at the domain in September 2019. - Stephan Reinhardt