Ripe lemon notes on this wine's nose have hints of Mirabelle plum and lemon-peel waxiness. The palate is rounded and smooth, but shot through with ripe lemon zest. This wine is fruitier and richer than expected, but buffered by a chalky texture that hints at untold depth. The finish reveals the full dimension of the wine. Drink 2022–2040 ANNE KREBIEHL MW

Offering up aromas of crisp green orchard fruit, dried white flowers, oyster shell and iodine, the 2018 Chablis 1er Cru Montmains is medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, with a satiny attack, fine depth at the core, lively acids and a long, expansive finish. This is very promising.- WK

The 2018 Chablis Montmains 1er Cru is more malic and steely on the nose compared to the Vaulorent or Fourchaume, the scents of sea spray, Granny Smith apples and limestone gaining good intensity with modest aeration. The palate is well balanced with a penetrating, spicy entry, very saline, almost peppery; hints of asparagus and kiwi fruit emerge toward the finish. I appreciate the austerity of this Montmains in what was a warm growing season. One of Fevre’s more divisive wines, but personally, I like this. -- Neal Martin