A full-bodied white with complex aromas of hawthorn, ripe peach, apricot, mango, lime, flint, toast and some smoke. Layered, concentrated and persistent with bright acidity and a firm, phenolic texture. Hint of vanilla. Very long and refined. Beautiful as always. Very approachable, but better from 2022.

The Castello della Sala 2019 Cervaro della Sala relies on a time-honored formula in which the Grechetto grape adds vertical intensity and freshness and Chardonnay gives structure and sophistication. Indeed, Grechetto (with late-harvest clones) never goes above 10% of the blend, and no malolactic fermentation is performed on that variety in order to maintain its tonic and fresh personality. This stunning edition shows orchard fruit, honey and flinty notes. The Chardonnay ferments in neutral barrique from September to February, and fine-grained wood is prioritized to render a reductive winemaking technique to further preserve aromatic intensity. This mid-weight and age-worthy white is redolent of Golden Delicious apple, acacia flower and tropical fruit. - ML

A mix of mulled yellow apples, crushed hazelnuts, dusty dried flowers and wet stone creates a rich and inviting display as the 2019 Cervaro della Sala evolves in the glass. It’s soft and enveloping, casting opulent waves of textural ripe orchard fruits and subtle savory spices across the palate. Nuances of wild herbs come together with lingering mineral tones under an air of vanilla custard as the Cervaro della Sala tapers off fresh yet with incredible length. This blend, primarily Chardonnay with a dollop of Grechetto, could use another year or two to fully unwind. -- Eric Guido

A toasty, medium-bodied white, with rich notes of baked nectarine, grilled nut, lemon curd and candied ginger gliding across the palate. Enlivened and balanced by well-honed acidity and a chalky underpinning that lingers on the snappy finish. Chardonnay and Grechetto. Best from 2022 through 2029. – AN